Pete Giwojna
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Re:Mangrove Trees - 2005/10/25 18:40
Dear Shorty & Anita:
That 24 inch tall aquarium has good height for a seahorse setup but it is not well suited for mangroves, which do best in shallow tanks that can be viewed from above. I would not recommend starting out with a mangrove system for your first seahorse tank. Mangroves are rooted plants that require a deep substrate with the proper grain size and consistency. They need relatively bright lights and can be tricky to establish in the aquarium. Mangroves/seagrass tanks are best viewed from above, rather than the side, and it may be difficult to view your seahorses (or feed them) in such a setup. Plus they have a few other drawbacks hobbyists should consider. Here is a discussion of seagrass setups from my new book (Complete Guide to Greater Seahorses) that will give some pointers on how to proceed if you decide to go ahead with a seagrass biotype, and which also discusses the potential drawbacks of such a system:
The Seagrass System/Mangrove Tank.
Another interesting option for seahorses is to establish an aquarium that duplicates a habitat consisting primarily of seagrass and mangroves. This would recreate a biotype where several seahorse species are naturally found, including Hippocampus zosterae, H. erectus, H. reidi, H. kuda, and H. histrix (Delbeek, Nov. 2001). Charles Delbeek is one very prominent aquarist who maintains a seagrass/mangrove setup, and the following information is based largely on his system and recommendations.
Over the last 5-10 years there has been an explosion of interest in seagrass and mangroves as aquarium specimens, creating a demand and a growing market for these. For instance, mangrove seedpods with sprouting leaves are now readily available to the home hobbyist and seagrass is becoming more so with every passing year. Seeds and/or seedlings for Thalassia turtle grass and Enhalus tape seagrass should soon be available to hobbyists in abundance (Delbeek, Nov. 2001).
Delbeek recommends a shallow, broad tank such as a standard 40-gallon breeder for a seagrass and/or mangrove setup, which will allow a large surface area to grow the seagrass and still leave plenty of room for positioning mangrove seedpods along the perimeter or perhaps as a centerpiece. For the substrate, he suggests at least four inches of a calcareous sand/gravel mixture with a variety of grain sizes, ranging from one or two millimeters to a centimeter or so in diameter (Delbeek, Nov. 2001). If possible, live sand is preferable for this. It is a good idea to build up the sand bed where the mangrove seedpods will be placed, since they will benefit from a deeper layer of sand that allows better root development (Delbeek, Nov. 2001).
Certain corals occur naturally in mangrove/seagrass areas, and Delbeek suggests adding a variety of these to your design as fragments attached to a few small pieces of live rock artfully arranged on the bottom. To complete the biotype, he recommends including small fragments of Acropora spp., Montipora digitata, Pocilliopora damicornis, Porites cylindrica or Seriatopora hystrix. Free-living corals such as Fungia, Herpolitha, Polyphyllia or Trachyphyllia are also good choices that would not look out of place in a seagrass/mangrove system (Delbeek, Nov. 2001).
Filtration for such a setup can be very simple since the deep live sand bed and plants provide the biological filtration and denitrification ability. Delbeek suggests using a canister filter for light mechanical and chemical filtration, supplemented by a protein skimmer to deal with excess nutrients created by the feeding sea horses. Gentle to moderate currents can be directed as needed by the use of small powerheads and/or the canister filter returns.
Since a seagrass/mangrove tank is best viewed from above, and not just the front, he recommends using a hanging light fixture that will allow the tank to be observed from the top as well, with the tank itself placed on low stand. For best results, the lighting fixtures should include a combination of metal halide and fluorescent lights (Delbeek, Nov. 2001). In addition, placing the tank in a location where it will receive a few hours a day of direct sunlight is also very desirable, as long as overheating of the aquarium water does not become a problem.
Delbeek recommends allowing the sand bed to mature and the seagrass to begin to grow and spread for at least six months adding any seahorses. This break-in period will also allow time for the mangrove seedpods to take root and begin to grow and establish themselves, as well as building up a heavy population of microfauna in the sand bed and seagrass (Delbeek, Nov. 2001). Once the seahorses are introduced, they will enjoy grazing between meals on the abundant copepods and amphipods that have established self-sustaining populations in the tank.
Once the seagrass is established, it will grow rapidly. As they reach the surface, they will grow along the top just beneath the water, thus creating shady retreats for your seahorses underneath the overhanging mat of vegetation (Delbeek, Nov. 2001). Although the seahorses will enjoy the dim light under the canopy of seagrass, the corals you’ve carefully added will not, so make sure your coral fragments are positioned in well-lit areas.
A well-designed seagrass system that includes mangroves and a variety of carefully selected corals makes a very interesting exhibit. It creates a veritable Garden of Eden for seahorses, which feel right at home in the natural surroundings. The lush seagrass and mangroves provide them with abundant shelter and privacy, and the seahorses enjoy hunting the microcrustaceans that thrive in such setups.
But there are a few drawbacks to such system. In the first place, it can sometimes be difficult to obtain seagrass and mangrove seedpods. Once obtained, it can be tricky to get the mangroves and seagrass off to a good start. Once started, it takes a long time to establish a seagrass/mangrove system and for the live sand bed to mature before they’re ready for seahorses. Once the tank is ready and the seahorses have been introduced, such systems are not always the best setups for observing seahorses and studying their complex behaviors. Seagrasses do best in shallow setups whereas seahorses do best in taller (deeper) tanks. Finally, brightly colored seahorses may not retain their vivid coloration amidst all the greenery. For instance, bright orange or red seahorses would stick out like a sore thumb in a bed of seagrass, and when they feel too conspicuous, seahorses are apt to revert to cryptic coloration.
In short, a seagrass/mangrove biotype is a wonderful choice for experienced hobbyists who want to maintain seahorses in a natural setting, but it may not be the best choice for beginners and less advanced aquarists. If you don’t have a green thumb or a lot of seahorse savvy, and you are not experienced with deep live sand beds, you may be better off starting out with a standard SHOWLR tank or an even more basic system.
That's the quick rundown on seagrass systems, guys. If your leery about your ability to manage to manage a mangrove system properly but you like the look of such a tank, I would suggest you consider artificial plants and hitching posts instead. There are a wide range of beautiful, extremely lifelike, artificial plants and decor available that are designed specifically for aquarium use. These include sponges, faux corals and gorgonia, various plants and even seaweed and seagrass. Heck, some hobbyist achieve great results with silk flowers and colorful silk plants as holdfasts for their seahorses. Why not ask the group members what they prefer in that regard?
Best of luck with your new seahorse setup, Shorty and Anita!
Happy Trails!
Pete Giwojna
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