Pete Giwojna
Moderator
Moderator
| Posts: 1852 |  |
Karma: 59
|
Re:Different behavior - 2008/08/21 21:56
Dear Jairo:
Okay, it's good that your male can swim normally and hitch properly. Since he doesn't have any indications of positive buoyancy then you can be confident that he's not having a problem with air trapped in his pouch, gas bubble syndrome, or a hyperinflated swimbladder. One less thing to worry about...
Many of the parasites that attack the skin of seahorses and other fish also infest their gills, and a heavy infestation can greatly impair their breathing and leave them starved for oxygen. I suspect the female that did not eat and is just kind of laying at the bottom is exhausted because she is oxygen deprived and stressed out following the freshwater dips. A lack of oxygen is very debilitating and leaves the seahorse very weak and fatigued. As a result, the affected seahorses may detach themselves from their hitching posts periodically and rest on the bottom, unable to exert themselves in their weakened condition. As you can imagine, being deprived of oxygen really wipes them out in terms of loss of energy and stamina. And it also results in respiratory distress, and rapid, labored breathing as they try to oxygenate themselves.
To counteract this problem, I would like you to add one or more airstones to your aquarium anchored a few inches below the surface. This will increase the aeration and surface agitation in the aquarium, facilitating efficient gas exchange at the air/water interface, and promote better oxygenation of the water. It will also help to gently increase the circulation in the aquarium, all of which will aid the seahorses breathing.
In addition, the female that's laying out at the bottom and the small female that sloughed the white parasites from her back and seems to be the most ill may benefit greatly from a dip in methylene blue at this point.
Here are the instructions for treating seahorses with methylene blue to assist their breathing and control protozoan parasites, Jairo:
Methylene Blue
Commonly known as "meth blue" or simply "blue," this is a wonderful medication for reversing the toxic effects of ammonia and nitrite poisoning (commonly known as "new tank syndrome"). Since hospital tanks are usually without biological filtration, and ammonia and nitrite can thus build up rapidly (especially if you are not doing water changes during the treatment period), it's a good idea to add methylene blue to your hospital ward when treating sick fish.
Methylene blue also transports oxygen and aids breathing. It facilitates oxygen transport, helping fish breathe more easily by converting methemoglobin to hemoglobin -- the normal oxygen carrying component of fish blood, thus allowing more oxygen to be carried through the bloodstream. This makes it very useful for treating gill infections, low oxygen levels, or anytime your seahorses are breathing rapidly and experiencing respiratory distress. It is the drug of choice for treating hypoxic emergencies of any kind with your fish.
In addition, methylene blue treats fungus and some bacteria and protozoans. Methylene blue is effective in preventing fungal infections, and it has antiprotozoal and antibacterial properties as well, by virtue of its ability to bind with cytoplasmic structures within the cell and interfere with oxidation-reduction processes. A "must" for your fish-room medicine cabinet. However, be aware that it is not safe to combine methylene blue with some antibiotics, so check your medication labels closely for any possible problems before doing so.
If you can obtain the Kordon brand of Methylene Blue (available at most well-stocked local fish stores), the instructions for administering it as a very brief, concentrated dip are as follows:
For use as a dip for treatment of fungus or external parasitic protozoans and cyanide poisoning:
(a) Prepare a nonmetallic container of sufficient size to contain the fish to be treated by adding water similar to the original aquarium.
(b) Add 5 teaspoons (24.65 ml) per 3 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 50 ppm. It is not recommended that the concentration be increased beyond 50 ppm.
(c) Place fishes to be treated in this solution for no longer than 10 seconds.
(d) Return fish to original aquarium.
When you administer such a dip, hold the seahorse in your hand throughout the procedure and time it closely so that the dip does not exceed 10 seconds.
And here are Kordon's instructions for administering the methylene blue in a hospital tank if longer-term treatment seems appropriate to reverse more severe cases of nitrite poisoning and ammonia toxicity or exposure to high-level of nitrates:
As an aid in reversal of nitrite (NO2-) or cyanide (CN-) poisoning of marine and freshwater aquarium fishes:
(a) Remove carbon filter and continue to operate with mechanical filter media throughout the treatment period.
(b) Add 1 teaspoon of 2.303% Methylene Blue per 10 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 3 ppm. Continue the treatment for 3 to 5 days.
(c) Make a water change as noted and replace the filter carbon at the conclusion of the treatment.
See the following link for more information on treating with Kordon's Methylene Blue:
Click here: KPD-28 Methylene Blue
http://www.novalek.com/archive/kpd28.htm
If you obtained a brand of methylene blue other than Kordon, just follow the instructions the medication comes with. Remember that methylene blue will have an adverse impact on the beneficial bacteria that carry out the nitrogen cycle, so don't use it in your main tank -- rather, use the methylene blue as a quick dip or for treating the seahorses for a prolonged period in your hospital tank.
You should be able to obtain methylene blue for aquarium use at any well-stocked pet store or local fish store.
Best of luck eradicating the parasites and restoring your seahorses to good health, sir!
Respectfully,
Pete Giwojna
|
